Hello it's Tiffany again i'm very sorry i have not been able to sign into my account but now i am back and i so much to tell you :) x
Sunday 28 November 2010
Sunday 4 July 2010
Tying up a horse/pony and tips.
Whenever you are grooming or saddling you will need to tie your horse. Horses and ponies can be tied with a lead rope, trailer ties or cross ties. No matter what is used, tying must be done in a manner that is most safe for handler and horse.
There is some debate whether horses should or shouldn’t be tied ‘solid’. Tying solid means to tie so that it’s almost impossible for the horse to break free. For the horse’s or pony’s sake it is probably best if handlers don’t tie solid. If a horse is badly startled while tied it could panic, struggle and injure its neck and back. But sometimes we have to balance horse safety against people safety. There may be situations where it is safer to tie solid than have a horse break away and bolt into a crowd of people or busy highway. But when we are working with our horses in a paddock, or in the stable it’s safer for the horse to be tied so the rope or tie will break free if it panics. Always tie to a post, wall, or partition that is firmly anchored and will not come loose if the horse pulls on it. The object is to have the tie rope break rather than the structure you are tying to, or the horse’s neck. Don’t tie your horse or pony to anything that moves. If you are at a horse show or trail ride be cautious when tying to fences. Old posts can be weak at the bottom, and may be ripped up by your horse.
Don’t tie to:
•logs on the ground
•loose or thin boards
•fence rails
•lawn chairs
•truck tail gates
•anything else that isn’t securely anchored.
Cross ties.
In a barn with roomy workspaces or aisles, cross ties secure your horse and make it easy to work all the way around when grooming, or tacking up. Cross ties should be long enough for the horse to lower its head comfortably, but not so long that it would be possible for the horse to become entangled or even step over the rope. Cross ties can be made to break free easily by attaching the ends through loops of bailer twine or strong string. ½ inch garment elastic can be used if you like the idea of a tie that flexes when the horse pulls on it a bit, but will still break if the horse struggles. Chains are not a great idea for cross ties. If a panicking horse breaks free with chains attached, the chains can swing and cause injury to both horse and handler.
Trailer Ties
Trailer ties work well if you are tying in or to a trailer, or to a post. Make sure your trailer ties are long enough so that your horse’s head is not too restricted. Some ties are made 18” long, and not long enough for use while you are working with your horse; your horse won’t be able to move his head naturally. Longer adjustable trailer ties (about 3 feet long) with quick release snaps are ideal. Make sure the snaps aren’t stiff with rust or winter ice so in an emergency they work the way they are supposed to.
Lead ropes
Cotton rope, 1 inch to 1 ½ inches in diameter is ideal for lead ropes. Flat lead shanks of leather or webbing aren’t ideal for tying with. Again, loops of baler twine, string, or garment elastic make safe breakaway ties around a fence post. Tie high enough that the horse can not step over the rope, but not so high or tight as to restrict the movement of the horse’s head. Check your ropes often for wear if you need to tie solid, such as out on trail, or at a horse show. Use a quick release knot, so that if your horse is struggling you can easily pull on the end of the rope and free the horse.
There is some debate whether horses should or shouldn’t be tied ‘solid’. Tying solid means to tie so that it’s almost impossible for the horse to break free. For the horse’s or pony’s sake it is probably best if handlers don’t tie solid. If a horse is badly startled while tied it could panic, struggle and injure its neck and back. But sometimes we have to balance horse safety against people safety. There may be situations where it is safer to tie solid than have a horse break away and bolt into a crowd of people or busy highway. But when we are working with our horses in a paddock, or in the stable it’s safer for the horse to be tied so the rope or tie will break free if it panics. Always tie to a post, wall, or partition that is firmly anchored and will not come loose if the horse pulls on it. The object is to have the tie rope break rather than the structure you are tying to, or the horse’s neck. Don’t tie your horse or pony to anything that moves. If you are at a horse show or trail ride be cautious when tying to fences. Old posts can be weak at the bottom, and may be ripped up by your horse.
Don’t tie to:
•logs on the ground
•loose or thin boards
•fence rails
•lawn chairs
•truck tail gates
•anything else that isn’t securely anchored.
Cross ties.
In a barn with roomy workspaces or aisles, cross ties secure your horse and make it easy to work all the way around when grooming, or tacking up. Cross ties should be long enough for the horse to lower its head comfortably, but not so long that it would be possible for the horse to become entangled or even step over the rope. Cross ties can be made to break free easily by attaching the ends through loops of bailer twine or strong string. ½ inch garment elastic can be used if you like the idea of a tie that flexes when the horse pulls on it a bit, but will still break if the horse struggles. Chains are not a great idea for cross ties. If a panicking horse breaks free with chains attached, the chains can swing and cause injury to both horse and handler.
Trailer Ties
Trailer ties work well if you are tying in or to a trailer, or to a post. Make sure your trailer ties are long enough so that your horse’s head is not too restricted. Some ties are made 18” long, and not long enough for use while you are working with your horse; your horse won’t be able to move his head naturally. Longer adjustable trailer ties (about 3 feet long) with quick release snaps are ideal. Make sure the snaps aren’t stiff with rust or winter ice so in an emergency they work the way they are supposed to.
Lead ropes
Cotton rope, 1 inch to 1 ½ inches in diameter is ideal for lead ropes. Flat lead shanks of leather or webbing aren’t ideal for tying with. Again, loops of baler twine, string, or garment elastic make safe breakaway ties around a fence post. Tie high enough that the horse can not step over the rope, but not so high or tight as to restrict the movement of the horse’s head. Check your ropes often for wear if you need to tie solid, such as out on trail, or at a horse show. Use a quick release knot, so that if your horse is struggling you can easily pull on the end of the rope and free the horse.
Friday 2 July 2010
sorry.
Sorry i have not done an other blog in about 1/2 wees because i tried to sign it but it would not let me but i'm back again so get ready for more blogs.:)
Sunday 20 June 2010
Hack with my fave horse!
Today i went on a canter hack at Hayfield with my mate Kelsey and my fave horse Goose.first on sat i went over to her house for a sleepover so me and her and her mum would take us up there in the morning at 8.30. But Kelsey did not go to sleep till 2.30 so she woke up ay 8.30 i we got there at 9.05am so we could groom are horses we were going to ride. Goose is my love of my life and he is really big to he is 16.1h so he is quite big. HE is realyy fun to ride and ride in canter. Are hack stared at 9.45 and was done at 11.00am. we would walk, trot, and canter and some bit when i was cantering some trees and stuff like that would hit me in the face. After the hack Goose was going to get ridden straight after the hack was but i love Goose so much i would love to buy him but i can't. Thanks for reading x thanks
ME horseriding on Thursday in my lesson.
Every Thursday i do a lesson at 5.00pm to 6.00pm on Thursday we were doing jumping small jumping cross pole and straight bar. I was riding a pony called Gemmia she is good but not all the time she bucks a lot but there a little big but not huge. We were doing things with stirrups and without stirrups. One thing we were is a 20 metre circle in trot then at one at a time we would go in canter. When i was trying to canter without stirrups (which is easy) Gemmia did a small buck and an other time she was going to kick my teachel Hannah. We were did some other things too. After that we did jumping and sometimes Gemmia will slow down before she gets to the jump and the just stop but on thursday she justed zoomed over which was really fun because when i ride her sometimes she dose not do that. So thats what we did so watch out for my posts every thursday because i will be talking about my horseriding:) thanks x
Monday 14 June 2010
How to groom a horse!!!
This is a little video of how to groom your horse there will be more videos on the way thanks x:)
Horse Grooming.
Horse grooming is hygienic care given to a horse, or a process by which the horse's physical appearance is enhanced for horse shows or other types of competition and to make the horse have a bond with you and horses love being groomed she like us humans.
Reasons for grooming.
grooming is an important part of horse care, and proper grooming is essential for horses that are used in competition or other events.
The main reasons for daily grooming include:
improved health of the skin and coat
decreases the chance of various health problems such as thrush, scratches, and other skin problems
cleans the horse, so chafing does not occur under areas of tack
gives the groom a chance to check the horse's health, such as looking for cuts, heat, swelling, lameness, a change in temperament (such as depression) which could indicate the horse is sick, and look to see if the horse has loose or missing horseshoes
helps to form a relationship between horse and handler, which can carry over to other handling duties and riding.
Some tools used for grooming.
currycomb or curry.
metal currycomb
dandy brush or hard-bristled brush
body brush or soft brush
hood pick
grooming towel
mane brush or comb
shedding blade
Sponges.
Reasons for grooming.
grooming is an important part of horse care, and proper grooming is essential for horses that are used in competition or other events.
The main reasons for daily grooming include:
improved health of the skin and coat
decreases the chance of various health problems such as thrush, scratches, and other skin problems
cleans the horse, so chafing does not occur under areas of tack
gives the groom a chance to check the horse's health, such as looking for cuts, heat, swelling, lameness, a change in temperament (such as depression) which could indicate the horse is sick, and look to see if the horse has loose or missing horseshoes
helps to form a relationship between horse and handler, which can carry over to other handling duties and riding.
Some tools used for grooming.
currycomb or curry.
metal currycomb
dandy brush or hard-bristled brush
body brush or soft brush
hood pick
grooming towel
mane brush or comb
shedding blade
Sponges.
Sunday 13 June 2010
poisonous plants for horses.
Poisonous plants for horses.
Acorns
Alder Buckthorn
Black Bryony
Black Nightshade
Box
Bracken
Broom
Buckthorn
Buttercup
Celandine - Greater
Charlock
Cherry Laurel
Chickweed
Clover
Columbine
Corncrockle
Cowbane
Cuckoo Pint
Darnel
Deadly Nightshade
Foxglove
Ground Ivy
Groundsel
Hellebore
Hemlock
Hemlock Water-Dropwort
Hemp Nettle
Henbane
Herb Paris
Horse Radish
Horsetail
Iris
Laburnum
Larkspur
Lily of the Valley
Linseed
Lupin
Marsh Marigold
Meadow Saffron
Melilot
Mercury
Monk's Hood
Oak
Pimpernel
Poppy
Potato
Privet
Ragwort
Rhubarb
Rododendron
Rush
St Johns Wort
Sorrel
Spurge
Thorn Apple
White Bryony
Woody Nightshade
Yew
Colic,lameness and minor wounds.
Colic- is one of the most common illnesses that ponies/horses get is colic. This gives them a sore tummy. The first signs of colic are sweating.restlessness ,biting or kicking at the flanks,pawing the ground. If your horse/pony is showing any symptoms of colic you should call the vet who can prescribe some painkillers or even operate them.
Lameness- When they hurt there legs they need help from you to help them nurse them better because them can't. The main signs of lameness are limping,or refusing to put the whole weight on one of there legs the sound of the hooves on the ground, the lenght of the horse's stride.
Lameness- When they hurt there legs they need help from you to help them nurse them better because them can't. The main signs of lameness are limping,or refusing to put the whole weight on one of there legs the sound of the hooves on the ground, the lenght of the horse's stride.
Minor wounds- Most small wounds can be dealt with on the spot and provided there is no complications these can be treated easliy.
- Firstly, stop the bleeding-a little loss of blood from a wound is ok as this is just our way of cleaning the area and most simple bleeding will stop after about twenty minute. To slow down the bleeding aply pressure directly to the wound with a sterile pad or similar material firmly on the cut.
- Then clean the wound. You must do this so that no dirt gets in the cut and causes an infection.
- Next dress the wound with something that would worl like a plasoter does on a human.
- Finally just keep the cut clean you must protect the wound.
What are the signs of a healthy horse?
A healthy horse should be alert and recognize what's going on around him. His eyes should be clear, and have nothing oozing from them. He should be able to open and close his eyes easily. His nostrils should be clear and free of discharge. His ears should move around, to wherever he hears something interesting. His ears shouldn't have mites or warts inside them.You should be able to feel his ribs when touching his barrel but you shouldn't see them. If you can see his ribs clearly he is too skinny! If you touch any part of their body, including legs, the horse shouldn't flinch. His legs should not be hot or swelling. When walked in-hand the horse should have his weight all four legs evenly, and shouldn't be limping or dragging any feet. His coat, mane and tail should be shiny and even.
You can tell a horse's health not only by looking at him and touching him, but also by observing. A healty horse will eat and drink willingly. (They don't have to drain the bucket, but they should be drinking.) If he shows no interest in what's going on around him, he may be sick.
One of the best ways to tell if a horse is sick is to remember how he acts usually (eg., how much he drinks, how energetic he is, ect.) and then compare it to how he is acting on any particular day. These are some other signs.
You can tell a horse's health not only by looking at him and touching him, but also by observing. A healty horse will eat and drink willingly. (They don't have to drain the bucket, but they should be drinking.) If he shows no interest in what's going on around him, he may be sick.
One of the best ways to tell if a horse is sick is to remember how he acts usually (eg., how much he drinks, how energetic he is, ect.) and then compare it to how he is acting on any particular day. These are some other signs.
- your horse looks alert,with ears pricking.
- The coat is glossy and lying flat.
- The horses skin is loose and supple.
- No signs of sweating when having a rest.
- Eyes open and birght.
- That there limbs and joints don't have any swelling or heat.
- That they stand evenly on all of their 4 legs.
- Breathing at rest should be easy not noisy or laboured.
- Temperature should be 38.5c
- Eating and chewing normally.
So that's some of the things of a healthy horse/pony if some of theses things are happening to happend to your horse/pony i would get a vet check to look at your horse/pony.
Saturday 12 June 2010
What is horse tack part2 bits and stirrups.
Stirrups- are supports for the rider's feet that hang down on either side of the saddle.Bits- A bit is a device placed in a horse's mouth, kept on a horse's head by means of a headstall. There are many types, each useful for specific types of riding and training.
What is horse tack?
Saddle.
Tack-is a term used to describe any of the various equipment and accessories worn by horses.Saddles, stirrups, bridles, halters, reins, bits, harnesses, martingales, and breastplates are all forms of horse tack. Equipping a horse is often referred to as tacking up.
Saddle-Saddles are seats for the rider fastened to the horse's back by means of a girth.
Bridle-Bridles usually have a bit attached to reins and are used for riding and driving horses.
Buying your first horse/pony part 2.
Finding a horse/pony.
Allow plenty of time for your search. You will learn a lot about horses and yourself in the process and find a more suitable horse in the end. In the beginning, temperament and soundness are the most important considerations. Your ideal horse might be a gelding or a mare of any breed or colour.
Six steps to horse ownership.
1.Learn and practice horse skills.
2.Decide what you are looking for
3.Line up prospects.
4.Interview potential candidates
5.Get a second opinion.
6.Arrange a trial period if possible
Decide what horse/pony you're looking for.
Next make a list of the characteristics of your ideal horse, including price. Bear in mind who will be riding and what kind of horse activities they'll be pursuing. Ask your instructor for advice. As you advance in your riding career, you'll become more specialized in your interests, but at this stage, you're probably looking for a horse you can enjoy on the trail, take some lessons on, and perhaps enter local open horse shows when you are ready.
Line up prospects.
Once you have your horse's job description and qualifications, you can start looking. Ask around about horses for sale, starting with your instructor. Check the classifieds. Read bulletin boards at tack stores and stables. Don't go to auctions. If a horse sounds promising, interview the owner on the phone. Make sure they know what kind of horse you're looking for. If the horse passes the phone test, round up a horse friend and go and have a look in person and maybe when you go see it they owner might let you have a test ride and they might ask your things too.
Interview prospective candidates.
First, does the horse look healthy and well cared for? Then remember that you're looking at temperament, training and soundness. Watch the owner catch him, groom him, tack him up and ride him. Then ride him yourself if you feel confident. If you're nervous about riding this horse, walk away. Don't expect the horse to behave any better when you own him than he does right now. For your first few months together, he'll probably be worse.
Get a second opinion.
If you like what you see, and at first you may fall in love with every horse, arrange a second visit. Take your instructor or another knowledgeable, objective horseperson with you and listen to their advice. If you decide to buy the horse, negotiate a trial period if at all possible. In any case, have a veterinarian check the horse for soundness before you hand over the check.
When you're ready for horse ownership, finding the right horse will make the difference between a long, happy relationship and frustration and possible injury. Enjoy the search, take your time and get professional advice.
Allow plenty of time for your search. You will learn a lot about horses and yourself in the process and find a more suitable horse in the end. In the beginning, temperament and soundness are the most important considerations. Your ideal horse might be a gelding or a mare of any breed or colour.
Six steps to horse ownership.
1.Learn and practice horse skills.
2.Decide what you are looking for
3.Line up prospects.
4.Interview potential candidates
5.Get a second opinion.
6.Arrange a trial period if possible
Decide what horse/pony you're looking for.
Next make a list of the characteristics of your ideal horse, including price. Bear in mind who will be riding and what kind of horse activities they'll be pursuing. Ask your instructor for advice. As you advance in your riding career, you'll become more specialized in your interests, but at this stage, you're probably looking for a horse you can enjoy on the trail, take some lessons on, and perhaps enter local open horse shows when you are ready.
Line up prospects.
Once you have your horse's job description and qualifications, you can start looking. Ask around about horses for sale, starting with your instructor. Check the classifieds. Read bulletin boards at tack stores and stables. Don't go to auctions. If a horse sounds promising, interview the owner on the phone. Make sure they know what kind of horse you're looking for. If the horse passes the phone test, round up a horse friend and go and have a look in person and maybe when you go see it they owner might let you have a test ride and they might ask your things too.
Interview prospective candidates.
First, does the horse look healthy and well cared for? Then remember that you're looking at temperament, training and soundness. Watch the owner catch him, groom him, tack him up and ride him. Then ride him yourself if you feel confident. If you're nervous about riding this horse, walk away. Don't expect the horse to behave any better when you own him than he does right now. For your first few months together, he'll probably be worse.
Get a second opinion.
If you like what you see, and at first you may fall in love with every horse, arrange a second visit. Take your instructor or another knowledgeable, objective horseperson with you and listen to their advice. If you decide to buy the horse, negotiate a trial period if at all possible. In any case, have a veterinarian check the horse for soundness before you hand over the check.
When you're ready for horse ownership, finding the right horse will make the difference between a long, happy relationship and frustration and possible injury. Enjoy the search, take your time and get professional advice.
Buying your first horse or pony.
When your going to buy your first pony or horse. You must be able to horse ride and afford it because keeping a horse is a little bit hard sometimes and know the basics of horses.
The first step.
The first thing is to leaning how to ride but if you don't do riding lesson's or nothing like and you don't know how to look after them or anything not a good idea to buy a horse. If you do horse riding lesson's and know how to take care of horse then you have to think if you are ready for a horse? When you have ridden enough to feel comfortable and under control at walk, trot and canter, and to know this really is how you want to spend a good chunk of your leisure time, then is time enough to think about a horse of your own. Ask your instructor whether they think you are ready. If it’s your child or yourself who wants a horse then that's fine.Right so listen your taking lesson's and you can afford a horse but The first thing to realize is that the purchase price is only the beginning and no, your first horse is not an investment. He/she has to eat 365 days a year. He/she need a farrier to trim his/her feet every six to eight weeks, and depending on his/her feet and what kind of work he’s doing, possibly shoes which really add to the cost. He/she need deworming every couple of months, yearly innoculations, and probably annual dental care. If he gets sick or injured, you’ll have extra vet bills as well. Then you’ll need to buy tack and equipment for your horse and proper riding clothes for yourself. So its a lot to think about and the livery which is keeping the horse in a stable or a field and picking the right stables too. If your buying a horse/pony make sure that you get paper work on the horse/pony just incase something goes wrong and you need the vet the vet will nee all that infomashion and whatever stables it goes to the stables will have it too if something goes wrong when you are not there.
The first step.
The first thing is to leaning how to ride but if you don't do riding lesson's or nothing like and you don't know how to look after them or anything not a good idea to buy a horse. If you do horse riding lesson's and know how to take care of horse then you have to think if you are ready for a horse? When you have ridden enough to feel comfortable and under control at walk, trot and canter, and to know this really is how you want to spend a good chunk of your leisure time, then is time enough to think about a horse of your own. Ask your instructor whether they think you are ready. If it’s your child or yourself who wants a horse then that's fine.Right so listen your taking lesson's and you can afford a horse but The first thing to realize is that the purchase price is only the beginning and no, your first horse is not an investment. He/she has to eat 365 days a year. He/she need a farrier to trim his/her feet every six to eight weeks, and depending on his/her feet and what kind of work he’s doing, possibly shoes which really add to the cost. He/she need deworming every couple of months, yearly innoculations, and probably annual dental care. If he gets sick or injured, you’ll have extra vet bills as well. Then you’ll need to buy tack and equipment for your horse and proper riding clothes for yourself. So its a lot to think about and the livery which is keeping the horse in a stable or a field and picking the right stables too. If your buying a horse/pony make sure that you get paper work on the horse/pony just incase something goes wrong and you need the vet the vet will nee all that infomashion and whatever stables it goes to the stables will have it too if something goes wrong when you are not there.
Videos
I will also try and make videos of me horse riding and showing you things about horses and all that.
Connecting with your horse.
if your allready have a horse and you don't really feel a connection try riding them more or being with them or grooming them all that things. It is very IMPORTANT to have a connection with your horse thats the mane thing of having a horse and looking after it and riding it often. We are to horses by fields of energry and conection are varying levels of communication and understanding the horses feelings and point of view. It's good to have a meaningful relationship with a horse, and also i good book to read is "Connecting with horses by Margrit Coates" i am reading it at the momment and i think it is very good and if you are having a hard time connecting with your horse i think that this book would be good for you.
About me and horses!!
Hello there and welcome to my blog. First since i have been little i have loved horses so much. At age 7 i started horse riding. i have been horse riding for 7 years now and i loved every part of it. Now that i have learned lots about horse riding and horses now im going to tell you all about it and everything you need to know. In some of my postes i will do little quiz's for you and you can feel free to ask questions about horse riding.horse facts anything about horses you need to know. I go horse riding every thursday and sometimes saturday and when i come back from horse riding i will tell you guys what i did. If you don't horse ride but you want to ride no problem i will tell u everything step by step.
Welcome to my horse riding blog.
Welcome to my horse riding blog and i'm going to talk about horse facts,all about horses, horse riding info and my experiences from beginner to intermediate of horse riding.
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