Hello it's Tiffany again i'm very sorry i have not been able to sign into my account but now i am back and i so much to tell you :) x
Sunday 28 November 2010
Sunday 4 July 2010
Tying up a horse/pony and tips.
Whenever you are grooming or saddling you will need to tie your horse. Horses and ponies can be tied with a lead rope, trailer ties or cross ties. No matter what is used, tying must be done in a manner that is most safe for handler and horse.
There is some debate whether horses should or shouldn’t be tied ‘solid’. Tying solid means to tie so that it’s almost impossible for the horse to break free. For the horse’s or pony’s sake it is probably best if handlers don’t tie solid. If a horse is badly startled while tied it could panic, struggle and injure its neck and back. But sometimes we have to balance horse safety against people safety. There may be situations where it is safer to tie solid than have a horse break away and bolt into a crowd of people or busy highway. But when we are working with our horses in a paddock, or in the stable it’s safer for the horse to be tied so the rope or tie will break free if it panics. Always tie to a post, wall, or partition that is firmly anchored and will not come loose if the horse pulls on it. The object is to have the tie rope break rather than the structure you are tying to, or the horse’s neck. Don’t tie your horse or pony to anything that moves. If you are at a horse show or trail ride be cautious when tying to fences. Old posts can be weak at the bottom, and may be ripped up by your horse.
Don’t tie to:
•logs on the ground
•loose or thin boards
•fence rails
•lawn chairs
•truck tail gates
•anything else that isn’t securely anchored.
Cross ties.
In a barn with roomy workspaces or aisles, cross ties secure your horse and make it easy to work all the way around when grooming, or tacking up. Cross ties should be long enough for the horse to lower its head comfortably, but not so long that it would be possible for the horse to become entangled or even step over the rope. Cross ties can be made to break free easily by attaching the ends through loops of bailer twine or strong string. ½ inch garment elastic can be used if you like the idea of a tie that flexes when the horse pulls on it a bit, but will still break if the horse struggles. Chains are not a great idea for cross ties. If a panicking horse breaks free with chains attached, the chains can swing and cause injury to both horse and handler.
Trailer Ties
Trailer ties work well if you are tying in or to a trailer, or to a post. Make sure your trailer ties are long enough so that your horse’s head is not too restricted. Some ties are made 18” long, and not long enough for use while you are working with your horse; your horse won’t be able to move his head naturally. Longer adjustable trailer ties (about 3 feet long) with quick release snaps are ideal. Make sure the snaps aren’t stiff with rust or winter ice so in an emergency they work the way they are supposed to.
Lead ropes
Cotton rope, 1 inch to 1 ½ inches in diameter is ideal for lead ropes. Flat lead shanks of leather or webbing aren’t ideal for tying with. Again, loops of baler twine, string, or garment elastic make safe breakaway ties around a fence post. Tie high enough that the horse can not step over the rope, but not so high or tight as to restrict the movement of the horse’s head. Check your ropes often for wear if you need to tie solid, such as out on trail, or at a horse show. Use a quick release knot, so that if your horse is struggling you can easily pull on the end of the rope and free the horse.
There is some debate whether horses should or shouldn’t be tied ‘solid’. Tying solid means to tie so that it’s almost impossible for the horse to break free. For the horse’s or pony’s sake it is probably best if handlers don’t tie solid. If a horse is badly startled while tied it could panic, struggle and injure its neck and back. But sometimes we have to balance horse safety against people safety. There may be situations where it is safer to tie solid than have a horse break away and bolt into a crowd of people or busy highway. But when we are working with our horses in a paddock, or in the stable it’s safer for the horse to be tied so the rope or tie will break free if it panics. Always tie to a post, wall, or partition that is firmly anchored and will not come loose if the horse pulls on it. The object is to have the tie rope break rather than the structure you are tying to, or the horse’s neck. Don’t tie your horse or pony to anything that moves. If you are at a horse show or trail ride be cautious when tying to fences. Old posts can be weak at the bottom, and may be ripped up by your horse.
Don’t tie to:
•logs on the ground
•loose or thin boards
•fence rails
•lawn chairs
•truck tail gates
•anything else that isn’t securely anchored.
Cross ties.
In a barn with roomy workspaces or aisles, cross ties secure your horse and make it easy to work all the way around when grooming, or tacking up. Cross ties should be long enough for the horse to lower its head comfortably, but not so long that it would be possible for the horse to become entangled or even step over the rope. Cross ties can be made to break free easily by attaching the ends through loops of bailer twine or strong string. ½ inch garment elastic can be used if you like the idea of a tie that flexes when the horse pulls on it a bit, but will still break if the horse struggles. Chains are not a great idea for cross ties. If a panicking horse breaks free with chains attached, the chains can swing and cause injury to both horse and handler.
Trailer Ties
Trailer ties work well if you are tying in or to a trailer, or to a post. Make sure your trailer ties are long enough so that your horse’s head is not too restricted. Some ties are made 18” long, and not long enough for use while you are working with your horse; your horse won’t be able to move his head naturally. Longer adjustable trailer ties (about 3 feet long) with quick release snaps are ideal. Make sure the snaps aren’t stiff with rust or winter ice so in an emergency they work the way they are supposed to.
Lead ropes
Cotton rope, 1 inch to 1 ½ inches in diameter is ideal for lead ropes. Flat lead shanks of leather or webbing aren’t ideal for tying with. Again, loops of baler twine, string, or garment elastic make safe breakaway ties around a fence post. Tie high enough that the horse can not step over the rope, but not so high or tight as to restrict the movement of the horse’s head. Check your ropes often for wear if you need to tie solid, such as out on trail, or at a horse show. Use a quick release knot, so that if your horse is struggling you can easily pull on the end of the rope and free the horse.
Friday 2 July 2010
sorry.
Sorry i have not done an other blog in about 1/2 wees because i tried to sign it but it would not let me but i'm back again so get ready for more blogs.:)
Sunday 20 June 2010
Hack with my fave horse!
Today i went on a canter hack at Hayfield with my mate Kelsey and my fave horse Goose.first on sat i went over to her house for a sleepover so me and her and her mum would take us up there in the morning at 8.30. But Kelsey did not go to sleep till 2.30 so she woke up ay 8.30 i we got there at 9.05am so we could groom are horses we were going to ride. Goose is my love of my life and he is really big to he is 16.1h so he is quite big. HE is realyy fun to ride and ride in canter. Are hack stared at 9.45 and was done at 11.00am. we would walk, trot, and canter and some bit when i was cantering some trees and stuff like that would hit me in the face. After the hack Goose was going to get ridden straight after the hack was but i love Goose so much i would love to buy him but i can't. Thanks for reading x thanks
ME horseriding on Thursday in my lesson.
Every Thursday i do a lesson at 5.00pm to 6.00pm on Thursday we were doing jumping small jumping cross pole and straight bar. I was riding a pony called Gemmia she is good but not all the time she bucks a lot but there a little big but not huge. We were doing things with stirrups and without stirrups. One thing we were is a 20 metre circle in trot then at one at a time we would go in canter. When i was trying to canter without stirrups (which is easy) Gemmia did a small buck and an other time she was going to kick my teachel Hannah. We were did some other things too. After that we did jumping and sometimes Gemmia will slow down before she gets to the jump and the just stop but on thursday she justed zoomed over which was really fun because when i ride her sometimes she dose not do that. So thats what we did so watch out for my posts every thursday because i will be talking about my horseriding:) thanks x
Monday 14 June 2010
How to groom a horse!!!
This is a little video of how to groom your horse there will be more videos on the way thanks x:)
Horse Grooming.
Horse grooming is hygienic care given to a horse, or a process by which the horse's physical appearance is enhanced for horse shows or other types of competition and to make the horse have a bond with you and horses love being groomed she like us humans.
Reasons for grooming.
grooming is an important part of horse care, and proper grooming is essential for horses that are used in competition or other events.
The main reasons for daily grooming include:
improved health of the skin and coat
decreases the chance of various health problems such as thrush, scratches, and other skin problems
cleans the horse, so chafing does not occur under areas of tack
gives the groom a chance to check the horse's health, such as looking for cuts, heat, swelling, lameness, a change in temperament (such as depression) which could indicate the horse is sick, and look to see if the horse has loose or missing horseshoes
helps to form a relationship between horse and handler, which can carry over to other handling duties and riding.
Some tools used for grooming.
currycomb or curry.
metal currycomb
dandy brush or hard-bristled brush
body brush or soft brush
hood pick
grooming towel
mane brush or comb
shedding blade
Sponges.
Reasons for grooming.
grooming is an important part of horse care, and proper grooming is essential for horses that are used in competition or other events.
The main reasons for daily grooming include:
improved health of the skin and coat
decreases the chance of various health problems such as thrush, scratches, and other skin problems
cleans the horse, so chafing does not occur under areas of tack
gives the groom a chance to check the horse's health, such as looking for cuts, heat, swelling, lameness, a change in temperament (such as depression) which could indicate the horse is sick, and look to see if the horse has loose or missing horseshoes
helps to form a relationship between horse and handler, which can carry over to other handling duties and riding.
Some tools used for grooming.
currycomb or curry.
metal currycomb
dandy brush or hard-bristled brush
body brush or soft brush
hood pick
grooming towel
mane brush or comb
shedding blade
Sponges.
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